EXPLAINER
Kitchen Chimney Suction & Ducting Explained: Installation
Master kitchen chimney suction power and ducting systems. Learn about CFM ratings, duct types, installation requirements, and how to maximize efficiency.
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01
The short version
WHAT SUCTION POWER IS
CFM, cubic feet per minute
The volume of air the chimney extracts. Higher CFM removes smoke and odour faster.
WHY DUCTING DECIDES IT
It can cost you half the machine
Poor ducting cuts real-world performance by 40 to 60%, whatever the rating says.
That second point is the one this page exists for. A 1,200 CFM chimney on badly routed duct performs worse than a 700 CFM chimney on a short, straight run — and you paid for the difference.
02
Understanding suction power and CFM
Suction power decides how effectively the chimney clears smoke, grease and odour. Sizing it starts with the room, not the listing.
THE SIZING FORMULA
Required CFM = kitchen volume × 10 to 12. Measure length × width × height in feet. Use 10 for light cooking and 12 for heavy Indian cooking.
| Kitchen | Dimensions | Volume | Recommended CFM |
|---|---|---|---|
| Small | 8' × 6' × 9' | 432 cu ft | 400–500 CFM |
| Medium | 10' × 8' × 9' | 720 cu ft | 600–800 CFM |
| Large | 12' × 10' × 9' | 1,080 cu ft | 900–1,200 CFM |
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The four CFM bands
300–500 CFM — LIGHT DUTY
- Best for. Small kitchens
- Cooking. Light Indian cooking
- Usage. One or two burners, occasionally
Suits singles and light cooking.
600–800 CFM — MEDIUM DUTY
- Best for. Medium kitchens
- Cooking. Regular Indian cooking
- Usage. Two or three burners daily
Suits families of two to four.
900–1,200 CFM — HEAVY DUTY
- Best for. Large kitchens
- Cooking. Heavy Indian cooking
- Usage. Three or four burners, frying, grilling
Suits families of four or more.
1,300+ CFM — COMMERCIAL GRADE
- Best for. Very large or open kitchens
- Cooking. Restaurant-style volume
- Usage. Multiple burners at high heat
Overkill in most homes, and noisy.
03
Ducted vs ductless systems
This choice affects installation complexity, running cost and how much smoke actually leaves the room.
DUCTED — RECOMMENDED
- How it works. Pushes air outside through ducts
- Efficiency. 85–95% effective removal
- Installation. Needs external ducting
- Maintenance. Fewer filter replacements
Complete smoke and odour removal, no recirculation, lower ongoing cost. Against it: complex installation, external wall access needed, higher fitting cost.
DUCTLESS (RECIRCULATING)
- How it works. Filters air and returns it to the room
- Efficiency. 60–75% effective removal
- Installation. No external ducting
- Maintenance. Regular filter cleaning and replacement
Easy to fit, no structural work, good where a building forbids external venting. Against it: weaker on heavy cooking, higher maintenance cost, and efficiency drops as filters saturate.
04
Ducting fundamentals
Poor ducting can cost 40 to 60% of the chimney's capability, which makes a high CFM rating meaningless.
DUCT DIAMETER
- 300–600 CFM. 6 inch
- 700–900 CFM. 8 inch
- 1,000+ CFM. 10 inch
- The rule. Never narrower than the chimney outlet
MATERIALS
- Aluminium. Light and rust-resistant — good
- Galvanised steel. Durable and affordable — good
- PVC pipe. Not heat resistant — do not use
- Flexible duct. Use sparingly; it costs airflow
Layout, from best to worst
IDEAL
- Shortest possible path
- Two bends at most
- Straight horizontal run
- Gradual slope for condensation
ACCEPTABLE
- One or two extra bends where unavoidable
- Slightly longer run
- Smooth bends rather than sharp
- Adequately supported throughout
AVOID
- Several sharp 90° turns
- Very long horizontal runs
- Vertical drops with no slope
- Undersized duct diameter
What each compromise actually costs
| Layout | Power loss |
|---|---|
| Straight 6ft run | 0% |
| One 90° bend | 10–15% |
| Two 90° bends | 20–25% |
| Poor installation overall | 40–60% |
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05
Installation, step by step
-
1
Planning and measurement
Measure the exact distance from chimney to exit point and plan a route with the fewest bends. Check for electrical wiring and gas lines along the path, and confirm you have external wall or window access. Mark the whole duct path before any cutting starts.
-
2
External exit point
Cut the hole one inch larger than the duct diameter. Fit a cowl or louver so rain cannot enter, seal around the opening with weather-resistant material, and give it a slight downward slope for drainage.
-
3
Duct installation
Clamp the duct to the chimney outlet and support it every four to six feet. Use smooth bends rather than sharp turns, and seal every joint with aluminium tape.
-
4
Testing and optimisation
Run the chimney at maximum speed and check for air leaks at every joint. Verify suction at cooktop level rather than at the hood, and adjust the damper if the model has one.
06
Three installation mistakes that cost real performance
UNDERSIZED DUCTS TO SAVE MONEY
Always use the manufacturer's recommended duct size or larger. A narrow duct creates back-pressure and cuts efficiency sharply — far more than the few hundred rupees it saved.
MULTIPLE SHARP 90-DEGREE BENDS
Use smooth radius bends and cap the run at two turns. Plan the layout to minimise direction changes rather than working around them afterwards.
POOR SEALING AT JOINTS AND EXIT
Use quality aluminium tape on every internal joint and weather-resistant sealant at the external connection. Leaked air is extraction you paid for and did not get.
07
How this changes what you buy
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
- A CFM rating around 1.5× your calculated requirement
- A duct outlet of 6 inches or more
- Variable speed controls
- Professional installation included
- Baffle filters you can actually reach to clean
RED FLAGS
- A CFM rating that looks too high for the price
- No provision for external ducting
- Cheap plastic components in the airflow path
- Installation excluded, or priced absurdly
- No warranty on the motor or the installation
08
Maintenance schedule
WEEKLY
- Wipe external surfaces
- Run every speed setting once
- Listen for unusual noise
MONTHLY
- Deep clean the baffle filters
- Check duct connections for leaks
- Inspect the external cowl or louver
ANNUALLY
- Professional duct cleaning
- Motor lubrication, if the model needs it
- Full system inspection
09
Frequently asked questions
Is higher CFM always better?
No. Size CFM to your kitchen and your cooking. An oversized chimney wastes energy and is noticeably noisier. Work out the requirement with kitchen volume × 10 to 12, then buy around 1.5× that.
Can I install the ducting myself to save money?
You can, but professional installation is worth it here. Poor ducting costs 40 to 60% of performance, which wipes out the saving and then some. There are also safety considerations around gas lines and wiring.
How much power does each bend cost?
Roughly 10 to 15% per 90° bend. Two bends cost 20 to 25%. That is exactly why the shortest, straightest path matters more than the headline rating.
What is the maximum useful duct length?
Keep the total under about 20 feet in a home. Longer runs need a wider diameter and a higher CFM rating just to hold adequate suction at the cooktop.
Ducted or ductless in an apartment?
Ducted, whenever external venting is permitted — the performance gap is large. Where the building forbids it, buy a good ductless system and stay disciplined about the filters.
How often should ducts be professionally cleaned?
Every 12 to 18 months for heavy Indian cooking, and every two to three years for light cooking. Reduced suction and visible grease at the external exit are the signs it is overdue.
A note on scope
Suction and ducting requirements vary with kitchen layout, cooking habits and local building codes. Consult a qualified installer and follow the manufacturer's guidelines for your specific model. This page is educational, not an installation specification.
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